Fall
2004 Trend Report
Leather Takes the Lead
ARA
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| Red merino shearling lambskin
coat with black fox collar and cuffs by Dominic Bellissimo,
$2595. |
Pumpkin suede machine washable
and dryable suede belted trench coat with Scotchgard protector,
by Bernardo, $159. |
Fashion steps into fall 2004 in a decidedly upbeat
mood with designers serving up a wider variety of styles, shapes
and colors than has been seen in many a season.
Overall, the single most striking direction is the return of “ladylike”
dressing, though this theme is subject to a multitude of variations:
there are retro-inspired looks with precisely-tailored lines and
rich details, as well as more contemporary ensembles featuring sleek,
elegantly simple shapes that showcase the season’s ultra-luxe
fabrications. And at times, this season’s lady likes to go
a little bit wild, making a statement with tongue-in-chic mixes
of patterns, colors and textures that are extravagant and exuberant,
and yet somehow perfectly pulled-together.
Leather is a natural element for all of fall’s many moods
and expressions with designers making the most of its versatility,
rich textures and upscale appeal. This season, leather and suede
can be played off of vintage tweeds, ethereal chiffons and glamorous
satins, but they’re also perfectly paired with aerodynamic
tech-enhanced fabrics.
Refined coats and topcoats are reinvented in rich shearling. Classic
leather blazer and trench styles are updated in unexpected pale
shades and ultra-bright tones. Gutsy racing and motorcycle styles
emerge in new guises from sporty to sophisticated. According to
the Leather Apparel Association (LAA), here are some of the ways
leather’s diversity is expressed in the best of fashion for
fall 2004:
Pure Refinement
Coats are a critical part of fall’s pulled-together approach,
with designers offering an array of refined styles reflecting vintage
influences from the ‘40s, ‘50s and ‘60s. For women,
the newest looks are slim, sophisticated and pretty like Dominic
Bellissimo's sleek shearling coat in red merino, trimmed with a
black fox collar and cuffs for a ladylike appeal. For men, Bellissimo
recasts the classic men’s wool topper in luxe lambskin shearling,
giving the look a more modern stance, along with its upscale appeal.
First Blush
Fresh color adds impact to the latest designs in leather, as designers
expand their palettes well beyond traditional autumnal tones. Subtle
“cosmetic” colors like face cream, powder blue and blush
pink impart inescapable femininity to tailored jacket and coat styles,
such as Kenneth Cole Outerwear’s blush toned blouson with
a flattering face-framing collar. At Pelle Studio, the classic zip-front
jacket has fresh appeal in cream-toned leather, while Siena Studio
offers a fresh take on the trench coat in crème caramel-colored
Italian nappa.
Color Rush
As a counterpoint to the season’s pale story, bold brights
liven the scene in high voltage hues like electric blue, fuchsia,
turquoise and rouge. These strong shades make a particularly striking
statement in fall shearling and suede: Dominic Bellissimo interprets
a jean jacket in vibrant turquoise shearling, while Bernardo turns
out a trench coat in spicy pumpkin in a suede style that is machine-washable
and Scotchgard protected for stain-resistance.
Competitive Edge
Racing looks rev up for fall, with NASCAR-themed designs adding
some speed to street fashion. At Wilsons Leather, stock car legend
Dale Earnhardt, Jr. provides the inspiration for a men’s NASCAR-style
racing jacket, in multi-colored leather with patched sleeves. For
female aficionados, there’s Schott Brothers’ white leather
racer with perforated leather trim.
Motocross looks also continue to accelerate this season, with designers
turning out an array of new variations on the iconic biker style.
Kenneth Cole Outerwear interprets the look in brown leather with
an asymmetrical zip-closure, while Black Rivet features a black
lambskin scuba with rib knit collar and body-conscious corset detailing.
Bernardo Men cuts its motocross jacket from a tan “naked desert”
lambskin, in a pared-down design that puts the spotlight on this
leather’s unique finish and natural texture.
Stadium Sport
With prep dressing continuing to gain in appeal, new versions of
collegiate styles make a strong showing for fall. Sean John Outerwear
puts a modern spin on the vintage varsity jacket, recasting the
letterman look in espresso brown wool with bold orange leather sleeves.
Best Western
There’s a Western wind blowing through town for fall, with
shearlings and details like saddle-stitching employed to express
rugged authenticity, as in Columbia Sportswear’s retro-styled
cognac suede jacket for women with four flap pockets and double-stitch
accents. In other cases, the interpretation is more urbane than
rustic, illustrated by the brown suede hipster with faux shearling
lining by Phat Farm Leathers.
Timberland Leathergear combines the spirit of the outdoors with
a polished “go to town” attitude in a brown washed suede
jacket embellished with triple-needle top-stitching and logo embroidery.
Special Effects
Fashion’s passion for decorative treatments is amply illustrated
in leather. Embossing and printed effects play an important part
in this fall’s textured emphasis, as in Cole Haan Outerwear’s
croc-embossed blazer. Fall is also a stichin’ time, with designers
applying an amazing array of embroidery, pick-stitching and other
accents: Bernardo adds pretty floral trapunto stitching to the front
of a kiwi-colored jacket in its machine-washable, Scotchgard protected
suede, while Nine West Outerwear accents a black leather coat with
some subtle herringbone pattern stitching.
From motorcycle looks with attitude to refined looks with a new
tailored sensibility, this season’s leather, suede and shearling
looks offer versatility and fashion savvy for everyone’s fall
wardrobe.
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Established in 1990, The Leather Apparel Association (LAA) is a
not-for-profit group of retailers, manufacturers, tanners, cleaners
and suppliers who together represent nearly 60 percent of America’s
retail dollar volume in leather apparel. For a full membership roster
as well as information on how to buy and care for leather, visit
the LAA’s Web site at www.leatherassociation.com. [ARA]
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